How to talk yourself into reloading Part 2

This past week I said I would move on to cover specific equipment selection. I started my research with one reloading manual, then another, until I had a pretty good idea of what I wanted, and why. I selected manufacturer’s books, like Speer and Hornady, but also independent publications not reflecting a hardware manufacturer’s bias, and info published by smokeless powder companies. The books were useful during the equipment decision making process and, of course later, while reloading. They’re pretty cheap insurance, and will help you to get more out of the overall effort. Interior and exterior ballistics are addressed, information that will help in making bullet selections, tables offer a guide to sighting in a rifle, and vital safety information is stated and re-stated for the handling all of this stuff.

I figured, on an average week, I would realistically go through maybe 150 – 200 rounds of center fire ammo. I also decided I would try to load no less than a week, nor more than a month’s worth of ammo at any one time, and I didn’t want to spend an entire weekend on the project. I needed moderate volume, semi-auto reloading, with a high degree of flexibility in loading mainstream, and not so mainstream cartridges. What can I say ? I am, and remain, Mr. Average American.

Based on this planned usage, I skipped the slant on reloading that suggests you can reload for $5 by using an old nail, an orange juice squeezer and a set of dies made from the nozzle on your garden hose. Then I skipped the trendy, high end, “doesn’t everybody use one” blue machines. For fine tuning my decision, I also took into account that I am not fond of unnecessary, redundant tasks. I do not have a need to feel “as one” with my ammo, and reach some form of spiritual bond, through a fully manual process, that will supposedly ensure improved accuracy. In fact I intend to just make the stuff and use it, whenever I feel like it.

The real basis for my selection decision –

Dillon went by the wayside pretty quickly, and I apologize for the poor picture of the model 650. Dillon just has a habit of posting pictures with $1000 worth of optional accessories hanging off of them. I know the brand has a cult-like following, but I think this group is made up of people who like to brag about how much they were overcharged for service on their BMW. For any volume requirements most people have, the equipment is way overpriced, short on supply and distribution channels, and less than flexible in cost of handling a wide range of cartridges. I think if you want to reload .45’s or .223’s in huge volume, frequently, their very high end stuff is worth looking at. The low and mid range isn’t much more than a rehashed older product line, painted blue. Where else can you find a simple 2 buck piece of plastic, listed as an “ammo tray”, and sold for $30 ? Overpriced, overkill.

Lyman went out next. I actually owned a Lyman turret press many, many, many, years ago. I think, at that time, I was going to attempt to reload the then ultra modern wildcat .30/30 round, butt I couldn’t get my hands on that “smoke-less” powder. I was able to locate  distributors on the web, none in local stores, and at outlets where Lyman was sold, product was available at sharply discounted prices. My assessment was that the press line was too light weight. I don’t particularly care for the die holder being supported by a center post, away from the primary load at the dies. Lyman also did not offer dies for several of the cartridges I needed to reload, didn’t offer the press travel to reload the extra long stuff, and didn’t offer auto progressive reloading. Price was right, but not press operation or range of cartridges handled. If I were doing only small capacity straight walled ammo (auto pistol), I would probably consider the brand more thoroughly.

Lee looked pretty good on price, and had some nifty features like an auto case feed system, although I wondered how much labor was actually saved, considering someone had to load the tubes. They seemed to have an extensive list of covered cartridges and shell holders, and they were designed for quick cartridge change over. Couple of things that made me set them aside. Outside of the web, I was unable to find a retailer that provided full representation of the product line. The powder dispensing system related to the Load-Master press seemed overly complicated, requiring part changes for various loads, and dispensed powder during the cartridge neck expanding step in the operation. Finally, when I ran the numbers across several Internet discount distributors in an apple to apple comparison down to bins and shell plates, RCBS was 10 – 15% less expensive. Overly complicated system, looked designed to mimic Dillon features at discount prices, but didn’t compare favorably in substantial system components.

Hornady Lock-N-Load AP was runner up. They had the same features of the product I selected and I liked the bushing system for changing out die sets. At a minimum, press for press, they were $70 more expensive than RCBS and they seemed to nickel-dime you to death on little things. Cartridge activated attachment for the powder dispenser, extra cost for simple drop tubes and optional bushings to meter powder for pistols. Not very expensive, but $5 here, $10 there…pretty soon you realize you’re paying $150 for $50 worth of accessory kit. For all manufacturers concerned, there seemed to be a major attempt at variations on product packaging in an attempt to avoid one to one comparisons. Sometimes the effort seemed to involve rolling semi-obsolete items into promotional packages, to give the appearance of added value.

You’re seeing green because I went with RCBS equipment: press, dies, powder scales, case cleaners, primer press, trimmers, socks and underwear. Selecting a brand is selecting a system, and full commitment is definitely in order. For one thing, every time you buy a component for the process, the instruction manual always references other components supplied by the same, or related, manufacturer.

As an example, RCBS is a division of the Blount Sporting Equipment group. While RCBS makes a full line of reloading tools and equipment, Blount also owns CCI/Speer, Weaver and Outers, etc. Just so happens RCBS .40 and .45 pistol die sets are offered with option bullet seating inserts made to fit the contour of a Speer Gold Dot bullet. If you buy the Speer reloading handbook, loads will call out Speer bullets and CCI Primers. While I like a lot of other manufacturers components, I really do like Gold Dots and CCI primers, so this product line optimizing is a nice bonus.

This doesn’t mean you’re locked into one brand, it just means things may all come together a little bit better if you do. I offer this sample passage from one unidentified manufacturer’s manual that covers the use of their primer feed tubes with their presses, “This primer system is matched to your press at the molecular level. You may try to patch or kludge together some form of shoddy mechanical Frankenstein from another manufacturer, however, do not forget that primers are as unstable as nuclear energy, and are relatively fussy about how they are handled. If you are that stupid, go ahead and use another brand, but don’t come running to us when your home has been leveled”. I may be paraphrasing a bit, but I think I’ve captured the essence of the message.

Incidentally, blue on the bench would have been Dillon, reddish orange for Hornady, orangish red for Lee, and sort of a funky gold for Lyman. I thought I had a point to make about distinct system color coding, that was relatively profound, but….apparently not. In any case, it looks pretty slick when everything is color coordinated and helps overcome what would have been an inevitable look of disorganization. I’m sure there are other brands that are popular, brands I missed completely, but I am the victim of mass merchandizing. Other companies marketing outside of that sphere of influence just eluded my analysis.

There is a positive side to mass merchandizing through large discount chains and large Internet suppliers. It means you have choices and can shop around for price and service levels. It means a brand has found wide market acceptance, or else these bottom line-oriented companies wouldn’t touch the product. It means you won’t have to get stuck dealing with the factory as the only game in town, and pay full retail for the pleasure of that inconvenience. In this regard, RCBS seems to do well at the stores, and they get high points at the factory. You can find virtually the entire RCBS line all over the Internet, in most every discount retail store, and at serious gun shops.

I could find a complete Ammo Master Press Auto on the Internet at T&T Reloading in Easton PA, for about $264 compared to $394 retail. T & T, incidentally, has some of the best prices on reloading tools and components I’ve been able to find anywhere. Their online ordering fits my 4 AM purchasing habits, their customer service is very responsive, UPS costs are offset by sales tax savings, and the $12 UPS handling charge for powder and primers is the same as everywhere else. Sorry for the little digression. In the SF Bay area, places like Tri City Sporting goods carried virtually the entire line with discounts from suggested list averaging 25% to 30% depending on the specifc item.

You of course can order directly from the factory, which is what I did for all of the not so mainstream stuff, like .338-378 Weatherby production cartridge dies and matching shell plates and holders. They were great with easy to understand tech support, provided factual and accurate status of orders, and can make a Fed X cutoff on late afternoon orders. Everyone I encountered in the organization was very helpful and knowledgeable. If you’re just looking, get their catalog. Organized, clear explanation, linked part numbers, page keyed price list and an excellent reference when you actually start shopping.

The following represents the major, and not so major, parts of the overall system I bought into, at least bought into enough to actually produce some ammo:

The press, more specifically an RCBS Ammo Master Auto. It will handle any dies and ammo size from a peewee .17 cal to the giant .50 BMG round. Should make it just about right for some of the larger magnum rifle cartridges, through to the small autoloader pistol rounds, that will come across my reloading bench. I know it doesn’t look like much to the untrained (or experienced) eye, but you can see some clues as to why I selected RCBS.

That clear plastic hopper is the top of a powder dispenser. Because I bought RCBS, it was included free with the press, along with three drop tube feeds to cover small and large pistols, as well as bottle neck rifle cartridges. It can dispense loads from small to enormous, and is mounted high above an extended drop tube for more uniform powder charges. Reloading manuals generally tell you to scale check every 10th charge from the dispenser. Over the course of checking and loading a couple hundred rounds, and dropping powder levels from a full hopper down to a third full hopper, the charges never varied over an extraordinarily safe .10 grain range. Not bad, for what is essentially a close tolerance, crank handle fed, powder scoop. Still need to check after every 10 as a standard reloading safety precaution, but the accuracy leaves you with a little extra piece of mind.

That little plastic bin hanging off the bottom of the press ? Other manufacturers call that a “large capacity ammo catch bucket” and charge almost $20 for the pleasure of having your ammo caught, before it hits the floor, deforming a newly loaded hollow point, or rolling somewhere way in the back of the bench. The bucket was, as it should have been, free of charge from RCBS. The press is well made. Three supporting posts at the die head, a 1.5″ ram that drives everything, and a handle that has been able to rip the lumber off of my workbench for full lengrh resizing, while still providing a light enough feel to accurately seat primers.Two primer tubes and associated primer feed shuttles come standard with the press, large and small, each holding 100 primers. Optionally, you can order an APS press mounted priming tool, so you can use those color coded plastic strips of primers and save the feed tube loading step.

The Ammo Master has a small footprint and an integral mounting plate that is 1/2″ thick, and comes with an oversized operating handle. Can’t believe that some manufacturers charge another $85 for a sturdy press mount plate and handle that provides decent leverage. Sort of like, “I can sell you this press for a hundred bucks. If you want one that works, it’s an even $800” The Ammo Master Press can be run as an auto progressive, with rounds being automatically moved from station to station. It can also be set up in a configuration that requires manual indexing of the round through each progression of the press. Finally, it can even be converted to single die station operation if you want to batch build of ammo, one step at a time. Auto progressive is simple, safe and fast. The Ammo Master Auto can be purchased at a walk-in discount sporting good store for under $300, and around $120 for the single station only version. There is an upgrade kit from single to auto, and even auto to single if you change your mind in either direction.

Dies are the heart of every reloading operation, and making sure you can get sets for the ammo you reload is half the battle. RCBS offers standard dies, small base dies for autos and lever action guns, carbide for straight walled pistol, competition micrometer dies for target shooters, and a lot of sets not generally available on other manufacturers lists. As an example, .357 SIG cartridges are on the standard die set list. The dies come in industry typical plastic storage cases.

There are five locations on the press’s quick change die plate, enough for any typical on-press operations, with maybe one or two left over. The die plate shown mounted on the press is for the .45 auto using Gold Dot Speer bullets. Front right is for decapping and case resizing, right rear for fresh primer and putting a slight bell on the case mouth, rear center is for powder charging, left rear for safe powder level checking, and left front for bullet seating and (in this case) taper crimping. RCBS also offers powder checker dies that will lock the press if a low powder level is detected. Put an empty case in station 1 and a finished round pops off the press at every down stroke of the handle.

It takes about 10 minutes, at a leisurely pace, to remove a die and shell plate, primer tube and shuttle, and change over to a completely different rifle or pistol caliber. Because shell plates and primer sizes are common to so many cartridges, sometimes the changeover is limited to the die plate with associated dies. With the use of extra die plates, you retain all of your previously made die settings and adjustment.

Shell plates make up the base that holds the cases and rotates them from one position to the next. Shell plate selection is based on cartridge rim thickness and diameter, so each plate covers numerous cartridges. Everything with RCBS is number coordinated, so a #3 designation for shell plate, is the same designation as a #3 holder for their manual trimmer, and the designation applies to the same cartridges. The piece sticking out to the right of the shell plate is the shuttle that moves loaded primers from a primer storage tube, to a spot under the shell plate and empty case for loading. The feed was flawless and smooth, and the primer seating “feel” was excellent.

There are a few extra items that were needed to get started –

A good scale, “good” not being synonymous with expensive is, is absolutely essential. Scales represent safety and may be used to meter powder for every round, if you so desire. Primarily they are used to set, and spot check, powder dispensers. They may also be used to QC finished ammo.

Good scales retail from $34 for basic models, up to lab scales at $350+, and on to fancy electronic scale/dispenser combos for over $400. The big issues are range, sensitivity, magnetic dampening, quality of beam pivots and repeatability.  I selected an RCBS Model 10-10 with 1,010 grain capacity, just in case I feel a need to start loading cannon rounds. It works like a champ,  and even came with a little dust cover I’m sure I’ll never use. Don’t use a bathroom scale, digital or otherwise. Because these measure in pound increments and aren’t very good at the low end, you would have to stand on the scale with each round, then weight without the round, then subtract..well, you get the idea.

Ah, Mr. Dial Caliper…it was only a matter of time. You need one to measure ammo. You need to measure empty cases to make sure they are in spec to the manual, check trimming operations and you need to measure finished ammo to make sure it will, well, fit and feed in your gun. Later on, when you become more “experienced” and stop working up loads, but rather ignore all safety rules and warnings and jump right to the max and beyond, you’ll be able to check case head expansion and primer backout, to see exactly how close to blowup you actually were. If you’re lucky, and you get really sloppy, you might be able to help the emergency room measure wound size. You can find these tools at Sears, home improvement centers, machine shop supply outlets and, of course, where reloading equipment is sold. Expect to pay somewhere between $39 and $79 for decent product, more if you like expensive toys.

Here’s that manual again. Aircraft pilots use check lists and are safety conscious, because at thousands of feet of elevation you don’t get too many chances at making mistakes. Reloading isn’t much different, holding 50,000 PSI under pressure in that gun wrapped up in your hand, doesn’t leave a lot of latitude for screw ups. Never reload anything without a manual. Use your scale, use your calipers, and all other safety check devices at your disposal. Wear safety glasses, don’t smoke, or burn incense while reloading. Reloading is easy, interesting, and the same tasks that make reloading safe, will also contribute to making really accurate ammo.

The hammer. This is used to check to see of primers are still live. You just sort of mash them right there on your work bench.  No..not really…just wanted to see if you were paying attention. An inertial puller, or bullet puller, is made to open up loaded ammo without damaging the components. You might use it when you want to double check a load from a large lot of ammo you’ve just completed, or to double check loads if you have doubts about the quality of the ammo you’ve loaded.

Basically, there is a chuck in the head of the hammer that supports the case by its rim. In front of the projectile is, nothing. You just wander out to your garage floor and smack the crap out of the business end, then recover and check the components. No, this time I’m not kidding. Never attempt to pull apart ammo from unknown sources, never return unknown powder types to production containers. There is also a type of puller that mounts in the press and allows you to use press leverage to pull the ammo apart. However, it damages components. These hammer type puller cost anywhere from $15 – $25 and, except for color and price, they’re pretty much all the same.

Cases need to be trimmed. High pressure bottle neck cases tend to flow brass from the case head, primer end, to the neck end, until the overall length increases. This increased length means the case, assembled with bullet, may be too long to fit in the gun’s magazine or clip. It is also possible to seat a bullet out so far the chambered round is forced far into the barrel rifling. You can go crazy and buy a power trimmer for around $200, or a manual trimmer for less than half that price. In fact, you can buy manual now, and upgrade with a power source later.

Repeated use and resizing of the same brass will eventually thicken the neck walls. Case neck turning tools will be required to bring the case neck back into spec. Left uncorrected, an undersize neck will cause problems when trying to seat bullets, and thickened walls may prevent chambering of an assembled round.  $26 and you’re in business.  In addition, an inside outside chamfering tool should be used to break sharp edges and burrs at the case mouth. Throw in another $5.

Dirty cases gunk up and damage dies and chambers. Brass should always be cleaned before use, and finished ammo should never be subjected to either of these cleaning methods. There are a couple of types of cleaners; those that vibrate, and those that tumble. Vibrating is cheaper and probably just as effective. Tumblers may allow you to use quick cleaning liquids in place of longer process abrasive corn cob or walnut husks, or even a combination of the two types. Tumblers run a couple of hundred bucks, good vibrator cleaners about half that amount.

Note – do not run a vibrator cleaner right next to where you are using a powder dispenser to load cases. Apparently the vibrations act like a mini compactor, and will increase the density of metered charges from your powder dispenser over a period of time. Besides the overall case cleaners, there are small brushes for cleaning case necks and primer pockets, all for a few dollars.

All processes require little odds and ends and reloading isn’t any different. Get ammo boxes to store material and to manage reloading cartridges through various stages. Label them. Never make up a box of ammo without identifying the specifics, or leave ammo in an unfinished state without an exact benchmark. Boxes cost around $1.50.

A primer flipper is really useful if you buy loose primers, and they can entertain you for hours trying to figure out the required  angle of incidence pressed into the cover ridges, to get those little suckers to flip over and play dead. $3.

A case lube pad or spray is needed whenever you are reloading with anything other than carbide die sets. Dry cases will damage dies and dies will damage stuck cases. Too much lube will hydraulic a case and dent it like a cheap can of tuna. Lube kits run around $12, with neck and case cleaning brushes and a bottle of pad lube. Broken case removal dies cost about three times as much, and are a whole lot less fun to use.

A powder funnel will help you pour measured powder throws back into bottle neck cases, although the little scale pan is good for anything .30 and over, if you have a pretty steady hand. A powder trickler is neat, and will meter out one particle of powder at a time. I don’t know why I would want to, but I believe one day the meaning will become self-evident. At a couple bucks it’s not a bad deal, even as a paper weight, and you won’t have to tell your more experienced hand loading friends you don’t have one.

This is an APS press. It’s function is to prime cases out of the reloading press, fed by little “no hands on” plastic strips filled with primers. I bought it because I read, many times over, that priming was a very sensitive process, best done without interference from other press processes. Priming, according to legend, should not, and could not, be done properly in the main reloading press. I was also brain washed to believe APS strips would prevent wide spread primer contamination caused by sweaty paws, and resulting misfires.

Humm..not quite correct, at least not with small and large pistol primers. The primer feed on the press works just fine, with no misfires, no feed jams and no seating depth problems. I’ll reserve final judgement until I’ve run large rifle magnum primers in the press. Cost of an APS press, about $68. $45 for a press mounted version, if you want to just use the little plastic strips in your main reloading press, and avoid manual primer feed tube loading.

So what does it run for a basic semi automated press setup to load, say, auto pistol rounds ? Lets take a look at street price you should be able to duplicate, even  over the Internet –

I figure if I can recover $20 per box over what I would have normally shot in my autos, 25 boxes of ammo over less than 3 months, I’ve recovered my costs, and I’m saving money. The process is very straight forward. It too approximately 4 hours to assemble everything, organize my bench and crank out the first finished rounds of ammo. Next installment – How to put all of this to use, test fire the results, and live to tell about it.

More on “How to talk yourself into reloading” –

How to talk yourself into reloading Part I

How to talk yourself into reloading Part II

How to talk yourself into reloading Part III

Thanks
Joe